Glasshouse Bistro Spring Menu Launch
Chef Nathan Hansen crafts a menu with interesting twists on Canadian classics.
February 6, 2017
With glass walls on three sides, the diners are offered views of the big Alberta sky. And, as my wife and I wait for our starters, we see the last few fingers of daylight give way to the night sky.
We are there for the launch of chef Nathan’s Hansen’s new spring menu, which looks to celebrate Canada’s 150th birthday with a focus on local products. Using herbs grown in the greenhouse and items from local producers, Hansen offers some interesting twists on some Canadian classics.
The cocktail bar follows suit with a martini that has hints of blueberry and comes with a candied rosemary garnish. It’s filled with evergreen and fruit notes, but they don’t change the classic drink into one of those juice-flavoured -tini aberrations that plague so many cocktail lists. The changes are subtle.
We start with the house-cured salmon and a fantastic tart. Really, it’s not a tart at all, but tomatoes, herbs and cheese served, pizza-style, on crust of puff pastry. Drizzled with a balsamic vinaigrette, it’s a fine mix of sweet and savoury — and, really, a meal unto itself.
I have the herbed salmon for my main, and it’s served with a green risotto. The herbed skin of the salmon is like a treat unto itself and the fish is perfectly done; it flakes at the touch of a fork but isn’t dry.
The highlight of the dessert menu is the Glasshouse’s take on a Quebec classic — sugar pie. It is a maple-syrup-heavy classic, with fresh cream on the side to add lightness.