Every family has members who grow up and move on, and for the downtown location of the Ric’s Grill chain, that time is now. To fit in with the other kids on the block, it’s rebranded itself as 104 St. Grill, put the chef’s name, David Bowie (no relation), right on the banner and changed from being a steakhouse to a group-gathering hotspot.
The menu has large portions ideal for sharing, including the grilled venison, imported from New Zealand. It’s expertly grilled, smothered in a thick juniper balsamic sauce and accompanied by an eggplant and zucchini pavé (think vegetable lasagna).
For a more traditional tapas, order the baked Brie. It’s slightly sugared, spiced and topped with caramelized onions and pear but, for most part, the main ingredient — Quebec cheese — speaks for itself.
But if you’re eating for one or want an excuse not to share, try the pan seared sea bass which Bowie expertly spices, giving the supple filet a crisp top. It comes with a huge heap of delicious brussels sprouts sautéed with golden beets in a sweet jus and accented with edible flowers.
If you want to share it with a companion, pair it with one of the many craft beers or 40 European and New World wines, and leave room for Bowie’s cookies of the day and milk. (10190 104 St., 780-429 4333, 104stgrill.com)