Sofra
10345 106 St., 780-423-3044
It's the pita I can't get enough of. Some 40,000 pitas and pides (Turkish canoe-shaped pizzas made with the same dough) have been placed in the oven since Sofra opened its doors just over three years ago. Chef and owner Yüksel Gültekin is fanatical about his bread, which is freshly baked for each order. He personally hand rolls each piece, and keeps the recipe a secret. I sit near the kitchen and watch this light-as-a-cloud bread being made.
The bread is delicious on its own, but with a unique dip, you can elevate your taste buds for $11. The biber ezme, a roasted red pepper dip, is a feisty blend of roasted Turkish peppers, lots of fresh garlic, feta and yogurt. The patlican ezme, although an eggplant-based dip, is definitely not baba ghanouj. In this dish, with its gentle smoky flavour, the eggplant is pureed with yogurt, garlic, fresh herbs and spices for an addictive result.
But, of course, delicious bread and dips are not the only reason to frequent Sofra. Try a cold bottle of Efes, a Turkish beer available in dark ale or pilsner for $7, then delve into a starter plate of yaprak sarma ($10). These are not your typical stuffed grape leaves. They're not salty or tough, but tender to the bite, with a slightly sweet filling of rice, pine nuts and raisins. This refreshing dish is served with a dollop of haydari, a mix of yogurt and spices that will leave you wanting more.
When it comes to your entrée, you can't fail with the kebabs, a mainstay at Sofra. While perfect grilling is important to the final product, it's the preparation of the meat and fish - marinated for at least eight hours - that results in very tender and flavourful dishes. The juicy, peppery and citrusy kilic baligi (swordfish) kebab is $27. For red-meat lovers, try the firm and spicy izgara köfte, traditional flat Turkish meatballs, for $19. From $25 dollars and up, lamb kebab is available as either kuzu (regular lamb), or kuzu pïrzola (rack of lamb). Accompaniments include a fantastic wholewheat bulgur pilaf of vegetables and baby greens tossed in a light honey-mustard vinaigrette. Depending on the number of appetizers you try, these entrées are plentiful enough to be shared.
As I overindulge in Sofra's meaty dishes and hot breads, I'm comforted by the glass "evil eye" in the centre of my table. Like the stained-glass eye that hangs over the kitchen area, it's a popular symbol in Turkish and Middle Eastern culture. As I heartily dig in, I trust that it's warding off the stares of others.
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