Sabzy Persian Grill
10416 82 Ave., 780-758-1005
Socializing is the most common pastime in Persian and Middle Eastern cultures, something we North Americans don't do enough of in our rush-about society. Luckily, in Edmonton we have Sabzy to fill that void. Once inside, a meld of modern and traditional Persian décor welcomes you. Middle Eastern art accents and fabrics on large cushions make for a first impression that is relaxed. But it's the hookah, or sheesha, that is most alluring. For $14, up to three patrons can share a water pipe with a mix of herbs, molasses and artificial flavouring of apples, strawberries or mint. One burning coal atop the smoke mix lasts about 30 minutes and, paired with a pot of cardamom black tea ($5), it makes for an excellent social setting.
This family-run restaurant on Whyte Avenue opened last January, with the middle son, Hossein, combining his desire to manage a business with his father's passion for hospitality and cultural pride. It's reflected in their motto: food connects.
Their congeniality is infectious. At their suggestion, I didn't order a glass of wine (I always have a glass of wine) but instead tried a traditional glass of doogh ($2.65). A blend of yogurt, soda and herbs, stirred with a touch of vinegar, this is a revitalizing beverage that acts both as a palate cleanser and a digestive.
Now for the food. To start, the naan paneer sabzy ($9) is hardly a starter; it could easily suffice as an entrée. It's a platter of soft Iranian feta or paneer cheese, combined with saltwater-soaked walnuts and almonds (also to aid digestion), pita, sliced cucumber, tomato and cilantro. The side of parsley is not a garnish - it's meant to be eaten. After all, "sabzy" means green (as in a healthy lifestyle).
Daily specials are repeated several times a month, and if you're lucky, the lamb stew ($15) will be available. The flavour combination is intense. Finely chopped parsley, cilantro, green onions, chives and mint are simmered with boneless meat, dried lemon, kidney beans and a splash of vinegar, and then stewed for several hours. If the lamb stew isn't on the menu, try the pomegranate chicken stew, cooked in a similar way but with finely crushed walnut and pomegranate paste. The specials come with Iranian saffron-scented golden basmati rice, which nicely soaks up the stew's sauce.
Given Sabzy's emphasis on fresh ingredients and human interaction, the restaurant makes for a very healthy setting.
Post new comment