What is brunch? It’s neither breakfast nor lunch, but a combination of both. It’s a decadent and rich meal that is sure to satisfy Sunday hunger pangs when you’ve done your religious duty and now you want to get your fill of bacon, eggs and tons of butter. Brunch lovers know if they wait a little longer to eat on Sunday’s, they can get catered to and spoiled, and why not? You work hard, don’t you? If you can’t fully justify the decadence, make it a social occasion – brunch is best when it’s shared with friends or family in a relaxing atmosphere.
The Wildflower Grill - The Matrix Hotel
10009 107 St., 780-990-1938
When you enter the Wildflower Grill, you’re instantly warmed by the trendy but relaxing environment, reinforced by oak panelling and close-ups of orchids and lilies painted by local artist Giselle Denis on the walls. Giant mirrors reflect metal curtain dividers that look like fire screens. Three wine cellars throughout the room and warm amber lighting set the tone for a brunch of a different colour. The price range is right — from $13 to $17 — and the style of service is à la carte. As I peruse the menu, a waiter brings me a complimentary warm, sweet corn muffin with a citrus maple butter, and Jamaican Blue Mountain coffee served in an individual French press. I love the way this restaurant uses a variety of serving dishes for both art and function to showcase the many intricate elements of their scrumptious dishes. “Our presentation is ridiculously beautiful,” says general manager Adam Blocka.
I start with some sweet dishes, which are in such large portions that they could easily be shared. The two fruit crêpes, filled with Grand Marnier mascarpone crème and finished with rum raisin sauce and seasonal fresh fruit, are soft, creamy and packed with subtle flavours.
The Brioche Bread Pudding French Toast is not a departure: the brioche (a rich egg-and-butter French bun) is made into creamy bread pudding first, baked, sliced and grilled. Three delicious slices are topped with Grand Marnier-soaked raisins, crème anglaise and fresh seasonal fruit (mango, peaches, gooseberry or pineapple).
Even if you are a traditionalist when it comes to eggs Benedict, try the Grill’s version. Eggs Benedict Two Ways ($14) is their signature brunch-themed dish. Your platter will arrive with two eggs served separately, each swimming in its own sauces. A red wine-poached egg on maple-glazed back bacon, finished with béarnaise sauce, is twinned with a saffron-poached egg on mesquite-grilled chicken breast, blanketed with a roasted red pepper charon sauce (think hollandaise with a touch of tomato purée). The two sauces magically hold the eggs together. The platter is rounded out with a perfect pairing of risotto-style hash browns, cooked generously with butter and cream, and presented in their own miniature cast iron dish.
If you’re looking for something more substantial, I recommend you try the staff favourite, the Spanish Skillet ($12). This is a hearty meal: two corn flour tortillas stuffed with scrambled eggs, bell peppers, chorizo sausage, tomato compote and Manchego cheese, served on a bed of sweet potato pavé. It comes with a fruit cup mixed with a Tahitian vanilla pastry cream on the side. The meal has a bit of a kick, a reflection of chef Yoshi Chubachi’s love of making the ordinary taste extraordinary. Brunch at the Grill is served between 11 a.m and 2 p.m. The space fits only 74, so make reservations. I left the restaurant grateful for that first sweet bite of muffin, because after my last mouthful of eggs Benedict, there was no room for dessert.
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