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September 22, 2019

Suburban Gem: Riverbank Bistro

This spot is well worth the drive to St. Albert.

Photography Curtis Comeau; Braised Alberta Beef Short Ribs

Located on the banks of the Sturgeon River just off the St. Albert Trail, the Riverbank Bistro is an easy drive for anyone living north of the North Saskatchewan.

And, it’s well worth the trip. Executive chef Dan Ducharme’s menu isn’t trying to be trendy; what the Bistro does well is elevate fine dining classics. My dining partner has the short rib, so tender you don’t need a knife, with a warm potato salad that has some really pronounced sour notes. The richness of the meat pairs nicely with the tang of the side.

I have the salmon and spaetzle after a well-executed Old Fashioned to start off the evening. (My partner has got the keys, tonight!) The salmon is served with a tomato chutney on top. The fish is crisp on the outside, melt-in-your-mouth soft inside. And the spaetzle is served with bacon and corn succotash that brings sweetness with a sharp, tangy dressing. The combination makes for palate-busting flavour.

The wood accents and antique roof panels make for a rustic feel, but most of the diners here are comfortable in either shorts or jeans. So, despite being located in a historic St. Albert home, there is nothing overly precious about a visit here.

8 Mission Ave., St. Albert, 587-290-1655, riverbankbistro.ca

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